Cuba Libre?

Economically poor but culturally rich.

As I stepped onto the streets of Cuba for the first time I knew I was in for something different. People everywhere, loud shouting and laughing voices, colonial buildings, horse drawn carts transporting people to and fro, old US made 1950's Chevys and Fords, a lack of advertising conspicuous by its absence, long queues of people for health clinics, colourful and neatly dressed school children, old people, musical instruments and a lot of people doing, well...I'm not exactly sure what.

Political Situation

The bakery across the street from where I stayed 

'Communism' (derived from the Latin word for common, or shared), is defined as a revolutionary socialist movement to create a classless, moneyless and stateless social order structured upon common ownership of the means of production. Cuba's current political situation came to be when an armed revolutionary group let by Fidel Castro (with the support of Che Guevara) successfully ousted the USA-backed dictator Fulgencio Batista in 1959. Revolutionary socialist movement: check. Some 80% of employment is for the government, down from 90%. Utilities, the petroleum industry, supermarkets, white goods stores, airlines, hotels, tourist resorts, airports, rum and beer production, sugar factories, TV stations, newspapers, restaurants, bars and even most homes are all government owned and operated. Within a few years of the revolution, almost US$25 Billion of private assets were confiscated and nationalized, including all foreign owned property. Common ownership of the means of production: check. It is also true that it is almost a classless and moneyless society, since all of these government jobs pay very little and very similar wages between occupations.  However, unlike a pure definition of communism, but very much like almost every example in history, Cuba is not stateless. Closer to a dictatorship than a republic, free speech does not exist, with Fidel Castro remaining in power and beyond public reproach since the inception. Even your liberty is public property, with two years of mandatory national service and one of the highest imprisonment rates in the world for those who do not strictly follow the rules.

Living Conditions

Poverty

One of the public housing projects in which I stayed

Economically, the average Cuban family is very poor. I was fortunate enough to be invited into the homes of many Cubans, and even stayed with one family for almost a week. Whether they live in grand old colonial mansions or small public housing project apartments, they have a low standard of living by the financial and material criteria. The roof and walls are peeling, few light globes work, few taps have running water (and almost never the toilet, which must be manually flushed with a bucket), they share up to four people to a double bed, there are no doors between rooms, no toilet seats and not much food. One day the family that I was staying with had no money, and if I was not there to buy some groceries to share they may have gone without. It was a particularly ironic moment  because immediately after doing the shopping for an impoverished family I walked with the grandmother to the monument to and final resting place of Che Guevara, where he helped win the most significant battle for the revolution. I wonder what Che would think about the current conditions in Cuba.

Conditions are not so bad to prevent joy

However, while poor, the home is not a dead place, filled with love and respect rather than material wealth. Guests would come and go all day, and when they had food or other things they would share without hesitation. The first night I arrived late and, even though I was not expected (they have no phone to call), was invited to share the meal with them. Respect is key in Cuba, and although there was not a lot of food to go around, you were expected to leave your plate unfinished to give a sense of abundance where there is not.

A very interesting feature of Cuba, which is partially responsible for the prohibitively expensive prices of some products, are the Government stores.  While most stores are government run anyway, some products that are deemed 'luxury' items are only available at certain government stores and are purchased with a separate currency specifically for luxury items. Things like toilets, fridges, furniture, Tupperware, imported food products, toilet paper and other such 'luxury' products are available at these stores. It is a sign of prestige to shop at these supermarkets. I came from spending $1 (in the local currency equivalent) for hamburgers and drinks for five people to this government run supermarket where I could buy a piece of frozen meat for $30. And it is not exactly like you get superior service at these government stores. Cuban Government employees are the most lazy and unprofessional I have seen in Latin America, and that is saying something. When you earn less than $1 per day and work for a Communist government who will not fire you, there is very little motivation to work hard. And this applies across the 80% of work in Cuba that is for the government. At least in my observations of Cuba, Communism does indeed tend to result in very low productivity and efficiency.

Variety is not a hallmark of  Communist countries

While many things are expensive (whether due to market forces or government policy), many things are also quite cheap. For example, a Government operated cafeteria runs at a loss selling a slice of cake and a scoop of ice cream for 6.5 cents. So in Cuba, at least in this case, cake and ice cream is subsidized by the government. Other things are cheap as well. A cafe, bread roll, bus pass or juice can be obtained for 4 cents, or a personal pizza for 20 cents. I also got into a live music concert for 8 cents and and some 300 km in the back of a truck for $1.60.

This picture requires no explanation. Just look!

But even given these low prices for some things, it is hardly surprising that families have insufficient money to replace light globes, fix plumbing or put food on the table when wages are as low as they are. One relatively well paid building painter living in the touristy area of Havana I talked to earned US$10 per month, working six days a week. A DJ I stayed with earned US$10 per month working three nights a week. An average Lawyer or Doctor salary is US$20...per month. That is $1 per day of work. Many doctors and lawyers are forced to work part-time as taxi drivers to supplement their income. It was with great embarrassment that I explained how I used to earn more than the monthly salary of a Doctor every hour working at a minimum wage Government job in Australia. If the standard, simplistic definition of poverty is used, where anyone with less than $1 per day is considered below the poverty line, then almost everyone in Cuba is impoverished, including Doctors and Lawyers. With such a low income, you then need to make very careful decisions about priorities and the lifestyle you want. Do you want to eat more food, better food, buy new clothes, rum or tobacco or perhaps household 'luxuries' like a working toilet or a door to your room? Because there is not enough for everything.

Government Services

On the other hand, you don't need much money when the government provides so many services. Another definition of poverty, rather than a set amount of spending money, is whether certain human needs are not adequately met. According to another criteria used by the UN, you are only impoverished if two or more of the following are lacking: food, safe drinking water, sanitation facilities, health, shelter, education, information and access to services. Water, health care, Government housing, education and some food is provided by the Government free of charge. So, by this definition, almost no one is impoverished in Cuba. Indeed, compared to the USA, Cuba has a higher literacy rate (99.8%), a lower infant mortality rate and a longer average life expectancy.

The free education system is actually quite good by world standards (excluding the History and Politics departments, who's impartiality is questionable to put it mildly). Cuban doctors, particularly, are internationally recognized for their high caliber, and many students from around the Spanish speaking world come to train in Cuba. Cuba also has an extensive program for sending medical graduates to assist in developing countries. Indeed, at any given time there are about 30,000 Cuban doctors stationed in developing countries, an effort which outmatches that of all the G8 countries combined. Cuba also has the highest doctor to population ratio in the world. 

Education is highly valued in Cuba. In Havana, the Capital, the most beautiful building is not the parliament building nor the presidential palace nor a church; it is the University. Following the revolution, the elite private collage and attached Catholic church were taken over and converted into a public university. Mounted on a hill overlooking the city and the ocean, the campus buzzes with a vibrancy that can be created only by students who want to be there. Since doctors are not paid much more than cleaners, only those who genuinely enjoy it will pursue higher education. It had a great vibe. And the courses are provided free of charge. 

Healthy care is also provided free of charge, but is of low quality. While the staff and doctors are well trained and do the best they can, the resources and infrastructure are insufficient. The hospitals are in disrepair and essential equipment, medication and available beds are often lacking. For example, when I was there by friend had a motorcycle accident hitting a pothole while avoiding a pedestrian who had carelessly walked onto the road. The hospital cleaned and bandaged up his broken ribs and collar bone free of charge, but had no available beds to keep him overnight for observations, and lacked stocks of some of the medication they proscribed.

Food is also provided to the people free of charge through ration vouchers exchanged for supplies at government depots once a month, but the quantity and quality is insufficient. While the monthly quota of rice and beans may keep you alive indefinitely, "it is only enough to feed a dwarf," explained one Cuban. In reality, all families must supplement their diet with food purchased in the market. Other things provided include free housing projects, pensions and old people homes.

The Cuban government does provide a lot, so there is less need for money. This is an ideal to be aimed for in Communism. However, the income and food rations they receive are insufficient. While they are not as impoverished as their minuscule income would suggest, they are still poor. The only way to maintain a decent standard of living in Cuba, other than being Fidel Castro, is to rely on money sent from relatives living overseas. When a toilet costs more than the entire annual salary of a Doctor or Lawyer, what other way is there?

Cuba is an Island

Cuba is an island. Not only geographically, but socially, politically and physically, Cubans are cut off from the rest of the world. This takes two main forms.

The US Embargo

Propaganda billboards are the only type of advertising 

When the revolutionary government took charge they confiscated billions of dollars worth of property from wealthy private citizens, mainly US citizens and companies. The capitalist, cold-war fearing US government did not like this, and imposed strong political and economic sanctions to undermine the new government. Cuban-owned assets in the USA were frozen, US products were prohibited from export to Cuba, Cargo ships which have docked in Cuba cannot dock in the USA for 6 months, US owned companies cannot do business with Cuba and, sometimes, foreign companies who conduct business with Cuba are barred from operating in the USA. This more or less remains the situation today. At a vote 188 UN countries were against the blockade, and only 3 in favor (the USA, Israel and some Pacific island nation). It is estimated that the blockade costs the USA over $1 Billion in lost trade annually.

Photo taken 2012, not 1952

As part of the broader cold war, the Soviet Union propped up Cuba,  providing mainly grain and manufactured products. But when the Soviet Union began to fade in the 1980's and material support began to dry up, Cuba was forced to turn to a new ally. Another communist country that just so happens to be the largest manufacturing country in the world stepped up: China. Now brand new Chinese made cars can be seen alongside the old USA made ones.

But the US blockade cannot entirely be blamed for the lack of products coming into Cuba. Firstly, the government is the only party who can import into Cuba, and this leads to reduced variety of imported goods and no competition. For example, the Cuban government made a deal with a Chinese manufacturer for 5,000 of the same car. The same brand, same model, same year, same colour. Not exactly a vibrant market.  Secondly, the Cuban currency is almost worthless on the international market, so they could not afford to buy anything with or without the blockade. For example, the Chinese cars were purchased by direct exchange of Cuban made rum, sugar and tobacco, rather than cold hard cash. Similarly, Cuba made a deal with Venezuelan president Hugo Chaves for 80,000 barrels of oil daily in exchange for 30,000 doctors and teachers

With such a limited flow of new goods, Cubans have learned to care for what they have. A culture of conservation and re-use has developed. The roads are still filled with Russian made 2-stroke motorbikes and 1950's pre-revolution USA made cars, whose tires they re-groove rather than re-place. They also refill what we could consider disposable cigarette lighters.

Censorship

Impatient, but I am sure he had nowhere to be

The other source of isolation comes from within. There is not free speech in Cuba, nor a free flow of information. Internet use is very restricted, and unauthorized access can attract prison sentences of up to five years. All television channels are also Government operated, as are the newspapers. Cuba has the second highest number of imprisoned journalists in the world, second to China. A Cuban girl proudly explained to me that she had an international email address, as if there was another kind. The US spends huge amounts annually broadcasting a TV and radio station into Cuba, but the Government has been successfully able to block the signal. Cuba does receive international news, but if it is unfavorable to Cuba it will not be shown and if it is unfavorable to the USA it will definitely be shown.

But other than the gross partiality in the news, the TV in Cuba is actually pretty good. An example of the schedule for one channel I saw was this: Opera; Art for Art; University for everyone: French Level IV; Classical Piano; Acrobatics (from China); Primates (David Attenborough). There are also plenty of the popular US made TV series. Another upshot of communist TV is that it is all delivered without adverts. To watch a movie or TV program without breaks, like watching a DVD, is a pleasant change from the periodic barrage of messages to consume delivered at high volume, often accompanied by seizure inducing bright lights and flashing colours. This lack of advert breaks means that programs do not run half an hour or an hour exactly, and start at odd times like 7:52 or 8:41. This lack of advertising applies throughout the country. On the streets, in the newspapers, everywhere. It is not that advertising is banned but rather than the Government sells virtually all manufactured products and they choose not to advertise. There is no need since they virtually have a monopoly. The only advertising I saw on TV was a campaign depicting moral lessons: help blind people cross the street; how to clean your house to reduce asthma; the importance of family; cleaning your yard to be a good neighbour. The only advertising I saw on the streets where giant billboards depicting sentiments of national pride. Contrast this lack of advertising with Australia, where more money is spent on advertising than on education. But despite all this Cubans somehow remain surprisingly aware of their situation. As one Cuban said to me, "we are blindfolded but not stupid."

Freedom 

One of the common consequences of sharing the means of production is that everyone needs to be the same, and if they are not they need to be forced to be the same. Cuba has severe criminal penalties and a very high incarceration rate by world standards (some 5%). They even have a 'Vigilance Committee,' charged with "vigilance against counter-revolutionary activity" but in reality with unlimited scope. Very George Orwell 1984. A good example is Marijuana. A small amount for one joint costs $5, or half the average monthly income. It is only so expensive because the penalty for being caught selling it is so sever: 5-10 years in prison or work camps. Around this an interesting culture has developed. To avoid the vigilance committee and police, dealers usually operate only via a mutual friend, who's commission for being the middle man is to share the spoils and join you to smoke. I met a guy drinking rum on the front steps of his house, celebrating his 30th birthday and a day off work. One thing lead to another and the next moment we were smoking in a back room in his house with a shrine to his African voodoo god, who he assured me it would please. Rolling papers are impossible to find, but he managed to role something smokeable using some government receipt. He then smoked it down until he was burning his lips in the true Cuban fashion not to waste. Everyone in Cuba seems to like marijuana, except the Government.

Other things attract excessive prison sentences as well. You will go to prison for making home-brew bears (up to five years), unauthorized access to the internet, killing a cow (twice the prison sentence of killing a human) or running a tattoo studio. One of my Cuban friends went to prison for three months for carrying a kitchen knife in his bag on the way from his house to his mother's house to help cook lunch. This law against carrying a concealed weapon is not universally enforced, but my friend has lots of tattoos and does not fit the image the Government has decided is proper. Another example of control is that, until 1997, there was a policy of apartheid tourism, where Cubans were not allowed to interact with foreigners beyond a professional capacity. Now tourism is too huge for this to be enforced, but you will still be sent to prison for being caught 'harassing' tourist twice, where harassment is defined and enforced as the officers see fit. On several occasions the Cuban I was walking with told me to walk in front as we passed police, since they already had one count on their record. But I guess that's what I get for hanging out with Anarchist youth in a communist state. Some people love Cuba and love living in Cuba, while others do not. A philosophy student I talked to who was actively involved in the student union loved Cuba. He was getting a free education and enjoying the student lifestyle. An Indie anarchist tattoo artist, on the other hand, said he did not like it, and wanted to live somewhere cold. The main problem I have with Cuba is that you cannot easily decide to leave. You need official permission, which is not readily granted. Indeed, some 30,000-80,000 Cubans are believed to have died fleeing to the USA by raft, only 145 kms away by open ocean.

Socialising

Dominos, the national game of Cuba

Cubans are night owls. With free time as their must abundant resource, indeed their only abundant resource, they spend most of their time socialising. Whether it is spent in hole-in-the-wall bars or playing dominoes under a street light, it seems that most Cubans stay out past midnight most nights. Cubans love to party. If they were not so damn poor they probably would be the biggest partying nation on earth. Or maybe it is because they are so poor. Fortunately, booze is still very cheap. A bottle of full strength beer costs from $0.50-$1, a liter of rum about $3 (or $5 for aged Havana Club) and cola almost $3 for two liters. When rum is about the same price as beer per quantity, cola about half the price of rum per quantity and everyone is poor the result is obvious: everyone drinks straight rum. And since most liquor stores and even nightclubs are Government run the prices are the same everywhere. I have bought a bottle of rum from a liquor store and gone into a club with it, and bought a bottle of rum from a club and gone home with it. The prices are the same. Street drinking is also legal. This results in a very fascinating drinking culture. Everyone will have bottles of rum in the bars or music venues, which they pass around freely. If there was a mouth transmitted disease everyone in Cuba would have it within a few days. Alternatively, people will loiter in the street out the front of the club or in a nearby park rather than pay the entrance fee to the club. If the entrance fee is $3, that's another bottle of rum. I saw a guy walking around with a boombox on his shoulder, preferring more rum and to provide his own music and entertainment.

Cuba is a culture of scabs. You know that one friend everyone has who is always bumming cigarettes and drinks from you? Well in Cuba that is virtually everyone. If they have they will share, but they almost never have. Other interesting feature of the Cuban social scene is how they communicate and organize themselves. Since almost no one has phones or even watches, organizing when and where to meet is very difficult. But somehow, through word of mouth, patience and a lot of luck, it works. The result is like an open party held in public places almost every night of the week. Sometimes people bring musical instruments and always people bring rum. You then talk and mingle, often moving to seek a more happening place based on some rumour or feeling rather than any concrete information.

Santiago de Cuba

In Cuba its all about personal respect. With no other possessions, they defend it and care for it above all else. When someone joins a group everyone greets them, usually by standing up and shaking hands or kissing on the cheek, but at the very least with a few moments of eye contact and a nod of the head. I never felt unwelcome. I spent most of my time with anarchist youth covered in tattoos who loved heavy metal, almost like punks from the 80's, but they were some of the most respectful and gentlemanly people I have ever spent time with. Another side of this respect is the importance of image. Cubans are very fashionable, well dressed people, at least for their level of income. Imported shoes are smuggled in from Mexico and other countries and sold on the black market. Cubans would rather spend $100 on a good pair of shoes and live in poverty. Socializing in Cuba is fun. Everyone wants to escape the melancholy produced by the poverty and drudgery of their daily lives. And, at least during the night hours, they often succeed.

Music

Free classical music concert in the Plaza

Another vital feature of Cuban society, also a means of escape, is Music. Whether it is in the house, on the street, on peddle-powered bicycle taxis or little girls thrusting their hips about dancing on their balcony, music is everywhere. There are regularly free concerts in the city's plazas, cafes and bars, as well as many more that you have to pay only a small amount. I paid 8 cents for entry to an entire night of live music. The previous afternoon at the same venue was a free concert of classical string instruments. Santiago de Cuba had the most abundant music. Within a few hours of walking around I stumbled upon three music concerts in various plazas all of different styles, including a brass band of some 30 members. There were about twice as many band members as onlookers. And the music throughout was of very high quality. Cuba has the highest ratio of doctors to population in the world, and I would not be surprised if they had the highest ratio of musicians as well. With little money to spend and lots of free time, the free government run music programs make an appealing prospect.

The best concert I went to was Candido Fabre and his band, playing in a public park in Havana at a free Government organised event. Best described as Cuban Charanga, the music was melodic, percussive and had a driving rhythm that made you want to move. Way in the back where small groups of friends talking and passing around bottles of rum, but as you moved closer the crowd got progressively more animated. In the middle where plain looking woman with children moving their hips like sexual animals, and in the front it was full on party. Almost everyone was drunk, which tends to happen when you drink straight rum from the bottle. And everyone was dancing, or at least moving in their own way. Many were dancing salsa, but most were free-styling. Old men were dancing and swaying with arms around each other like they were teenagers getting drunk for the first time. It was a great atmosphere. Everyone was there to forget about their dreary lives and have fun. The front man was a real showmen and his banter between songs held the attention of the crowd as much as the music. He started testing the crown with anti-Government sentiments, and by the end he was passionately shouting anti-Government solgans, all to roaring applause. According to my Cuban friend, more than half the population is openly anti-Systemic. He also believes that within 10 years the Communist Party of Cuba will be no more. The people already want change, but they are scared of fighting the Government. Another revolution is coming, and music and rhythm, the life blood of Cubans, will help drive it along. If it comes soon, the grandmother who I lived with for almost a week, who was born before the revolution, may yet live to see another attempt at Communism come to an end.

Conclusions

Cuba is a fascinating country. It is materially poor but culturally rich. Where even doctors don't always have enough money to replace the light bulb or fix the toilet, but can go to a free concert with excellent music and get drunk for $1 with rum they brought from home. They go without food to afford the new imported shoes they bought on the black-market with money sent from relatives working overseas. They don't have much, but what they do have they will share with an open heart. Music and passion still flow in the veins of the people, and I wish them luck. When the current establishment comes to an end they will need to change to survive; but I hope they don't change too much. If you are planning on visiting Cuba, the sooner the better. It is already changing.

Authors Note: I cannot verify any of the information in this article, and I apologize if I offend anyone. Most of the content for this article came from my own observation or informal conversations I had with Cubans, mostly conducted in Spanish. Cut me some slack.